Golden Gai began as a black market after the war and has long been a favorite eating and drinking spot for writers and actors. The alleyways are crammed with some 280 establishments, most of which are housed in two-story wooden flats. Walking among the lights of the retro signs feels like stepping back half a century in time. Many of Japan’s iconic night spots can be found in the surrounding area, such as the neon-lit streets of Kabukicho.